The 87 Ford F150 is a 2WD 4.9L in-line 6 manuel trans with dual tank. I changed the oil and oil filter, replaced the wiper motor with used part (mine was slow and stopping), new wipers, replaced the power booster with used part (mine had vacuum leak)(also this one is a little bigger then old one was), replaced bad seal in RR axle and added new gear oil, replaced 90% of brake lines because of rusty and broke when bleeding brakes (all clean brake Fluid now in lines), replaced center drag link (mine was egged and loose steering), replaced seals in steering for leaking, and added clamps to leaf springs (old ones broke or missing). I am not sure what else is need to do a tune up. I see and know of new spark plug wires and dis. cap. New starter and starter solenoid. The truck is running rich with black spitting out exhaust pipe. Have to change the valve cover gasket because of leaking oil as well as oil pan gasket. For oil pan gasket can i use the liquid gasket on it or buy a gasket? Please help me with my truck. How do i test the EGR valve also? Thank you!!




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1987 Ford F150 Try To Crank But Wont,

and 1987 Ford F150 Try To Crank But Wont.


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3 Responses to I Have An 1987 Ford F150 That Needs A Tune Up And More?

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alex p

February 9th, 2010 at 3:28 am

try to check it out first on auto repair shop..

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Alcide

February 9th, 2010 at 3:28 am

sounds like a vaccuum leak causing the richness and that produces the black smoke. check power booster for leaks or disconnected line.
have someone press brakes while you listen near booster for sounds of air leak. if no check other vaccuum lines by carefully spraying carb cleaner on all lines and if you hear a change in engine idle while doing this then the leak is in that area.
also adjust brake light switch.

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topofga

February 9th, 2010 at 3:28 am

I think you may have spent more than the truck is worth, but I think I can help with the brake light problem.
The switch for the brake light is inside near the top of the pedal. As the pedal is mashed, the switch contact makes and the lights come on. there is normally an adjusting nut to set the plunger closer to the pedal in full released position. you need to adjust so that there is about the double distance of a matchbook cover between the plunger and the pedal. This should allow the lights to come on as soon as any pressure is placed on the pedal.

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